Polysorbate 20

Today's Chemical:

Polysorbate 20

EWG Risk Score:

1   (Steph's risk score: 5)

What is it?

Polysorbate-20 is fragrance component, a surfactant, an emulsifying agent, and a solubilizing agent.   

Why is it a risk?

Polysorbate starts out as harmless sorbitol, but then it's treated with carcinogenic ethylene oxide.  It's called Polysorbate 20 because it's treated with 20 "parts" of ethylene oxide.  The higher the number, the more ethylene oxide it has been treated with.  This substance is then combined with various fatty acids.  The Skin Deep Database rates it as only a "one," and doesn't pick up on the risk that it could be contaminated with ethylene oxide, and subsequently, 1,4 dioxane.  In addition, it can be laced with heavy metals.

Types of products it's found in:

Facial cleanser, body wash, toners, moisturizer

A Few Brands that use this ingredient:

Kid Kare

Afterglow Cosmetics

Daisy Blue

emerginC

Lotus Moon

derma e

Kiss My Face

EO

Terra Firma

Alba

Steph's Opinion:

Although it's derived from a natural ingredient, it is not natural--it is an ethoxylated compound.  This is another case in point proving that you need to do your own research and not just count on the EWG risk score, as there are many ingredients that can slip through the cracks. 

Methylisothiazolinone

Today's Chemical:

Methylisothiazolinone

EWG Risk Score:

6

What is it?

Methylisothiazolinone  is a synthetic cosmetic preservative.

Why is it a risk?

Methylisothiazolinone is a known neurotoxin.  In 2004, the European Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products Intended for Consumers (SCCNFP) suggested that companies limit the maximum concentration to 0.01% (100 ppm).  However, US companies are not required to follow this guideline.  It is known to be absorbed through skin.  A study at the Pittsburgh School of Medicine concluded that "Prolonged exposure to low levels of MIT and related compounds may have damaging consequences to the developing nervous system."

Types of products it's found in:

Shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, facial cleanser, bubble bath

Brands that use this ingredient:

Suave

Eucerin 

Dove

Pantene

Dermacia

Neutrogena

Method

Avon

Steph's Opinion:

Although no studies have proven it to be, I believe this could possibly be an estrogen mimicker.  On a molecular level, it contains a benzene ring, which can mean that it could interfere with the body's estrogen receptors.   As if the high neurotoxicity wasn't enough.  Although concentrations of this ingredient are typically very low, I personally suggest avoiding this ingredient. 

Cocamide DEA

Today's Chemical:

Cocamide DEA

EWG Risk Score:

6-8 Depending on useage and concentration

What is it?

Cocamide DEA created by reacting diethanolamine with unspecified fatty acids from coconut oil.  Diethanolamine is made by reacting ethylene oxide and ammonia. It is used as a thickener, emulsifier and foam booster. 

Why is it a risk?

DEA is on three federal regulatory program lists as an indoor household air pollutant, a toxic substance, and is a toxic release inventory chemical.  It is a suspected  blood toxin, liver toxin, a kidney toxin, a neurotoxin, and a skin and organ system toxin.  Cocamide DEA carries these same risks, as it is chemically similar.  In addition, in the presence of other chemicals, cocamide DEA can break down and create carcinogenic nitrosamines. 

Types of products it's found in:

shampoos, body washes, liquid soaps, bubble baths

Brands that use this ingredient:

Neutrogena

Bioelements

Nature's Gate

Shikai

Method

Steph's Opinion:

As you can see, many "natural" brands use this ingredient, stating that it's made from coconuts.  Well, yes, part of it was once a coconut, but when you combine coconut with a possible carcinogen and toxic chemical, it kind of loses its natural appeal. 

Triethanolamine (TEA or TEOA)

Today's Chemical:

Triethanolamine (TEA)

EWG Risk Score:

6

What is it?

Triethanolamine is a detergent and emulsifying agent.

Why is it a risk?

TEA is created by reacting ammonia with ethylene oxide (a known carcinogen).  Amines such as TEA can degrade and break down in to nitrosamines under certain conditions.  Some people are also sensitive to TEA, and it can cause skin redness and burning.  It can also cause respiratory responses in airpborne products (like hairspray).  Most TEA on the market is a blend of about 85% TEA and 15% DEA, Diethanolamine.  Diethanolamine, a related chemical, has been linked to certain types of cancers.

Types of products it's found in:

Facial moisturizer

Sunscreen

Styling Gel

Foundation

Scrubs

Brands that use this ingredient:

Neutrogena

Physician's Formula

Biolage

St. Ives

Avon

L'Oreal

Steph's Opinion:

Alone, TEA has not been shown to form nitrosamines when it breaks down.  However, in the presence of N-nitrostating agents like sodium nitrate, bronopol, and brondiox, it has the potential to form nitrosamines.  The FDA recommends keeping TEA  and nitrosating agents apart so that no nitrosamines are formed.  So, although the risk of nitrosamine formation is low, this is still a troublesome ingredient because of its risk of skin irritation and because of its contamination with DEA.

Sources:

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient/706639/TRIETHANOLAMINE/

http://www.dow.com/PublishedLiterature/dh_004c/0901b8038004cfcd.pdf?filepath=productsafety/pdfs/noreg/233-00267.pdf&fromPage=GetDoc

http://www.lotioncrafter.com/triethanolamine-nf.html

http://www.preventcancer.com/press/releases/feb22_98.htm

Sorbitol

Today's Chemical:

Sorbitol

EWG Risk Score:

1

What is it?

A sugar alcohol used as a humectant in cosmetic products. 

Why is it a risk?

If ingested, it can cause intestinal upset. 

Types of products it's found in:

Soaps, Personal Lubricants, Facial Cream, Moisturizers, Mouthwash

Brands that use this ingredient:

Bubble & Bee Organic (That's us!)

Hugo Naturals

The Body Shop

Poofy Organics

Tom's of Maine

Steph's Opinion:

All sugar alcohols can cause digestive upset when ingested.  One study in 1987 showed that sorbitol caused mutagentic activity when ingested at high doses.  However, more recent studies have not shown this effect.  In fact, in one study, the "control" group had more chromosomal abnormalities than the group that was treated with sorbitol.  So, in this study, sorbitol had anti-mutagenic effects. 

When used on skin, sorbitol is a wonderful humectant, meaning it draws moisture from the air and brings it to skin.  Extracted from sugar beets, sorbitol is very similar to vegetable glycerin.  So the bottom line---great stuff!

Sources:

http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/s5666.htm

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=706239

http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/journal/119640248/abstract?CRETRY=1&SRETRY=0