Confirmed: Aluminum in Crystal Deodorants is Absorbed

This is a follow-up tidbit on the subject of Alum.  See my first article here and my second article here.

For a couple months now I've been talking about the crystal deodorants and how they still do contain aluminum even though most of them claim to be "aluminum-free."  I wrote about how crystal deodorants are made up of potassium alum, the nickname for potassium aluminum sulfate.  Once the potassium alum is wetted, as one would do using a crystal deodorant, it dissolves into ionic aluminum.  Ionic aluminum is the smallest form of aluminum possible.  My argument is that if larger molecules such as aluminum chlorohydrate pose a health risk by absorption, aluminum ions would as well.  Although I found a number of empirical studies that would suggest ionic aluminum is absorbed through the skin, I had yet to find a direct study stating that aluminum ions are absorbed through the skin.  Today I am glad to say, I found the research.

A French study published in the Journal of Biomedical Materials Research explored the effects of aluminum ions on collagen.  As stated in the study's introduction, "Heavy metal ions are capable of inducing crosslinking between peptide chains of collagen.  The metal ions improve the capacity of collagen to resist denaturization as well as the attack by enzymes, bacteria, and chemical agents." [p 1339]  In other words, metal ions have been found to stabilize collagen.  This is a process that is used in the leather-making industry (known as "tanning" hides) and in some medical devices/products. 

Chromium salts were already well-known to be a good collagen stabilizing agent at the time of the study.  The purpose of the study was to find if aluminum ions, as found in aluminum salts, had the same collagen stabilizing effects, and could be used in the same way industrially to tan hides and to create collagen-based medical materials. 

The researchers treated collagen with aluminum ions and found that it became significantly dehydrated.  They concluded that "the substitution of water molecules by aluminum ions on intramolecular hydrophilic sites is suggested to be responsible for this evolution." In other words, the aluminum ions substituted the water molecules in the collagen, thus drying it out.  This may explain why alum has a drying effect on skin-- as it robs the collagen of its moisture, aluminum ions replacing  water molecules.

The researchers studied the effects of aluminum ions on both extracted collagen and skin tissue.  The aluminum ions were found to affect the collagen in the skin samples.  Thus, we can ascertain that the aluminum ions were absorbed into the skin at some level.  The deodorant companies' claims that their aluminum molecules are "too large to be absorbed through the skin" are thus disproven. 

Aluminum ions, as found in crystal deodorants, are absorbed through skin, and do have a biological reaction therein. 

The Final Word on Japanese Honeysuckle Extract

I would like to announce today that I now have irrefutable evidence that Japanese Honeysuckle Extract does indeed contain parahydroxy benzoic acid, a "natural paraben" which has been shown- in lab tests- to act estrogenically like synthetic parabens do.  No ifs, ands or buts about it!

Over the last couple of months I've been writing about Japanese Honeysuckle Extract.  As you've probably seen, one particular company, 100% Pure, has not been happy about my research and articles.  If you've missed my last few articles on the subject, the crux of the controversy is this--companies that use honeysuckle extract have claimed that their products are "paraben-free."  I've argued that honeysuckle extract contains a highly concentrated amount of a naturally-occurring compound called parahydroxy benzoic acid.  Parahydroxy benzoic acid is nearly identical to parabens on a chemical level, and has been shown to display estrogenic activity in the body, just like parabens do.  This estrogenic activity isn't quite as strong as synthetic parabens, however, it is still active.  In fact, parahydroxy benzoic acid is the chemical that inspired chemists to create parabens in the first place.  It is parabens' namesake: parahydroxy benzoic acid.   (For a detailed diagram and description, visit my previous article.)

Througout the entire argument, there has only been one person who has addressed the controversy head on--a cosmetic formulator named Dr. Barbara Olioso.  The following statement is from her blog:

"The rumors about the Japanese honeysuckle extract are based on an article by Tony Dweck on Personal Care Magazine, entitled "An update on natural preservatives". In this article it is stated that the Japanese honeysuckle extract contains parahydroxy benzoic acid, nick named a natural paraben (as a chemist I do not agree with that because it is an acid and not an ester like the parabens...). This information was based on the MSDS of an old grade of this ingredient which was discontinued several years ago (it took me some time to find this out as the article does not mention the source of the information)."

 To further prove her point, she sent her extract out to a third-party lab in Italy for testing:

"So I sent a sample of the Japanese honeysuckle all the way to my home land, Italy and had it tested on the parahydroxy benzoic acid via HPLC using a standard method used in the cosmetic industry. The results? below detection limits (ie less than 10 mg/kg)!"

100% Pure apparently teamed up with Dr. Olioso by having her send test results to people who were questioning their extract.  (Even though they previously stated that their extract did contain parahydroxy benzoic acid.)

I saw the test results myself, and they indeed looked credible.  So, I concluded, the grade that Dr. Olioso was using didn't contain parahydroxy benzoic acid.  But how can 100% Pure use her test results to apply to their company?  What is the affiliation between 100% Pure and Dr.  Olioso?  How do we know that 100% Pure is using the same grade of extract?  When we asked, they gave no clear answer.  

So, I had seen the test results--I was getting ready to write a "not all honeysuckle extracts are bad" article.  Maybe I was wrong.  Maybe some grades are safe?  Maybe they've been reformulated without parahydroxy benzoic acid?  Maybe the MSDS sheets I had downloaded were outdated?

But then I did some more digging.  

To get to the bottom of this, I thought I'd go straight to the source.  There's only one major manufacturer of Japanese Honeysuckle Extract: Campos Research.  Why not ask them directly?  

Campos Research is based out of Singapore, but they have a New York office.  I tried calling twice, but no one answered the phone.  I had already tried e-mailing them numerous times over the last few weeks, but no one answered my e-mails either. 

So, I found the main US Distributor for the ingredient.  As a cosmetics company myself, I logged on to their website and put in an information request for Plantservative, the tradename of Japanese Honeysuckle Extract.  I asked them if they could send me an MSDS sheet for the ingredient.  I got a quick reply from the company, within just a few minutes.  I opened up the attachment to a nice packet about the product and all the MSDS sheets for all four grades of the extract. 

The MSDS sheets didn't list the constituents of the extract, so I sent a quick e-mail back to the distributor and just asked point blank: do all grades of Japanese Honeysuckle Extract contain parahydroxy benzoic acid?  Is that the active ingredient in the extract?

Minutes later, she wrote me back:

Yes, the para-hydroxy benzoic acid is the main active, and yes it is
present in all versions.  If you have any further questions, please feel
free to contact me.

Thus, I have written verification from the main US distributor that yes, all current grades of honeysuckle extract contain parahydroxy benzoic acid.  Period. 

So, now what about Dr. Olioso's lab tests?

This question was festering in my mind.  Were the lab tests altered?  Or was it just a different extract?  How could this be? 

Then it popped in to my head--one little detail from the MSDS sheets that I had just scoured.  On the page for Plantservative WSr, the tradename of the extract that Dr. Olioso sent out for testing, it stated under the "Assay Incompatibilities" category.  

This material is incompatible with Schiff Reagents, and Assays Methods of Schiff Reaction, or Modified Schiff Reaction Assays, via Colorimetric Techniques or via HPLC.

Here's a screen shot of the MSDS:

HPLC---sound familiar?  It's the testing method Dr. Olioso used.  It's not compatible for an HPLC assay-- in other words, you can't analyze the ingredient using this particular testing method (high performance liquid chromatography) because the testing itself alters the constituents of the extract!  The test results are totally inaccurate. 

This brings up an interesting question...did Dr. Olioso and 100% Pure know that the ingredient was incompatible with HPLC, and did they choose this testing method because they knew it would give a false negative?  There are plenty of other testing methods--gas chromatography, spectoscopy--why choose HPLC? Perhaps they chose it because HPLC is a standard and mostly reliable test method.  Perhaps they just didn't study the MSDS sheet closely enough.  I guess we'll never know. 

So there it is; the final word on Japanese Honeysuckle Extract.  The main US distributor for the ingredient verified without blinking that the ingredient does contain parahydroxy benzoic acid.  The "lab results" are inaccurate.  I can definitively say, Japanese Honeysuckle Extract does contain parahydroxy benzoic acid.  No matter how much these cosmetic companies dance around the issue, try to hide it, and try to brush it off, Japanese Honeysuckle Extract is, effectively, a "natural paraben."

For more information about the possible health effects of Japanese Honeysuckle Extract and its similarities to synthetic parabens, read my article here.

Update on Tue, May 25, 2010 at 2:25 AM by [Stephanie Greenwood]

Update: There is no apparent connection between 100% Pure and Dr. Olioso.  Dr. Olioso had shared her test results with 100% Pure to send to customers who were questioning them.  However, Dr. Olioso has now stated that she no longer wishes "to be involved with this 100% pure brand" in the comments on her blog.  

100% Pure Responds to Honeysuckle Extract Claims; Mudslinging Ensues.

Ah, the debate rages on about Honeysuckle Extract. 100% Pure has responded to your questions on their Facebook page.  Readers have asked them about honeysuckle extract and parahydroxy benzoic acid (for the original article, click here.)  This is my response to them.  Their original comments are on a thread on their facebook page.  Out of respect, I have responded here, instead of on their facebook page. 

They write:

"The japanese Honeysuckle Extract is a controversial ingredient-"

My response:

If it's controversial, then why use it?

They write:

"Of course with any other company that posts any other article, there is of course going to be some sort of bias to it, espesially since there it is controversial."

My response:

I'm really not biased against 100% Pure. If it was my mission to bring down 100% Pure, I wouldn't be recommending some of their products in the article I wrote about mineral makeups.

They write:

"We do NOT put ANY sort of chemicals, parabens of ANY sort in ANY of our products."

My response:

This is not true. By "chemicals" I'm assuming you mean synthetic chemicals.  (Everything is a chemical.)  Grapefruit seed extract is used in numerous 100% Pure products. It is a synthetic ingredient. I don't count something that's treated with ammonium chloride and hydrochloric acid to be a natural extract. (For more on this, read this article) Technically you're correct in stating that your product doesn't contain parabens, however, that's only a technicality (see this article.)

They write:

"We welcome you to do your own research. The owner an CEO of the company has many revolutionary patents under her belt for the oraganic cosmetic industry."

My response:

I agree. Everyone should do their own research. But however many patents 100% Pure and its owners have, it doesn't negate the fact that there is Japanese Honeysuckle Extract in the product.

They write:

A great place to start would be chemist Dr. Barbara Olioso's website: http://organatural.typepad.com/organatural_the_blog/2010/02/lonicera-japonica-and-parabens-the-cat-and-the-tiger.html

My response:

That's an interesting article, but it doesn't apply to 100% Pure. That's an article specifically about the extract that Dr. Olisio uses in her line of products. She has verified through third-party lab testing that her extract contains no parahydroxy benzoic acid. 100% Pure has not. In fact, to the contrary. I have in writing from Suzie Wang that 100% Pure's extract contains an ingredient that has the "same chemical structure as parabens." (See this article) In other words, parahydroxy benzoic acid.

They write:

"We here at 100% Pure are passionate and committed to making the best product out there with all organic products."

My response:

100% Pure does have some good products.  But for clarity's sake, they are not USDA certified organic....because Grapefruit Seed Extract, Japanese Honeysuckle Extract and other ingredients they use are not allowed in certified organic products.

They write:

"To everyone following a woman named "Stephanie" at Bumble and Bee- she is not the "go to" person in the world of organic cosmetics- whatever she says does not go. she is NOT the foremost expert in the world of organic skincare and cosmetics.

My response:

I don't know why my name is in quotes, as though it's not really my name...but, okay... I agree--everyone should do their own research. I'm just one resource.  I am an ingredient, research, and development expert, but I don't think there's one person that is the foremost expert in the field of organic skincare.

They write:

"She is welcome to her opinion- she is NOT, however, welcome to defame other companies. We welcome everyone to do their own research in regards to the ingredients in question."

My response:

I don't know what your definition of "defaming" is.  I'm simply bringing scientific studies and research to the eyes of the public about one ingredient.  I just wrote a list of companies who use the ingredient.  That is all.  If anything that I've written is untrue, please let me know. I'm happy to write a retraction if your extract doesn't contain parahydroxy benzoic acid, or if you've found a study that concludes that parahydroxy benzoic acid doesn't act estrogenically, or even if you know anything about its absorption.  Any kind of third-party information you can provide in defense of the ingredient, I will publish. 

They write:

"The rumors about the Japanese honeysuckle extract are based on an article by Tony Dweck on Personal Care Magazine, entitled "An update on natural preservatives". In this article it is stated that the Japanese honeysuckle extract contains parahydroxy benzoic acid, nick named a natural paraben (as a chemist we do not agree with that because it is an acid and not an ester like the parabens."

My response:

So, this again verifies that the honeysuckle extract you use doescontain parahydroxy benzoic acid, as you're coming to its defense. So, what do you say to this study that states:

 "It can be concluded that removal of the ester group from parabens does not abrogate its oestrogenic activity and that p-hydroxybenzoic acid can give oestrogenic responses in human breast cancer cells."

This is a study published in a peer-reviewed journal, not just the opinion of a chemist. Yes, synthetic parabens are more estrogenic, but it has been proven that parahydroxy benzoic acid does display estrogenic activity.  And it's not because of the ester group. 

They write:

"i really dont understand why you are defaming every company out there- your argument has no basis."

My response:

My argument has a solid basis.  For the benefit of your company, I would suggest you truly read the articles, understand the issue, and respond to the claims directly.   Also, there's no defamation going on.  I simply made a list of companies that use this ingredient.  This is already publicly available information from their websites and the Cosmetics Database.  I also wasn't the first one to write about Japanese Honeysuckle Extract.  The debate started on the Organic Consumers Association website, here over a year ago. 

They write:

"I have explained to you that we have a patent which preserves our formulas. No added ingredients. First of its kind."

My response:

No added ingredients? What does that even mean? We're not talking about patents, we're talking about one ingredient that you use: Japanese Honeysuckle Extract.

They write:

One more thing- you have to look at this not only from a consumer's standpoint but from a PROFESSIONAL'S standpoint, AKA, a CHEMIST who does the research themselves- we dont just sit here and research articles written by others. We DO the research ourselves. in a LAB. Please don't forget, we too, are also consumers. We wouldn't want to put anything harmful on our bodies. There are many CHEMISTS out there who have come to the same conclusion-

My response:

You're deflecting the issue. Have you studied the estrogenic effects of parahydroxy benzoic acid? Other chemists have? Let's see the research. I'll be happy to post it here. I've offered that to you before.

The bottom line:

It does not seem as though 100% Pure has done their own research on the topic as they advised their customers to do. All of their responses seem to just be cut and pasted from Dr. Olisio's blog or to be deflecting the issue and being defensive. They haven't found or done any studies to discredit those that I bring to the forefront. They haven't stated that their extract doesn't contain parahydroxy benzoic acid. They haven't responded to my research and seem to skirt around the issue in a defensive manner.

I do think that 100% Pure has done a lot for the cosmetics industry; I don't deny that. They have some wonderful products and I commend Suzie Wang for her pioneering work. It pains me to be going back and forth in this debate with them. However, I cannot deny the research that I've found. As someone who has been personally affected by xenoestrogens in personal care products, I feel it is my mission to educate people about the ingredients they're putting on their skin and in their bodies. Unfortunately, "Japanese Honeysuckle Extract" is one of them.

Honeysuckle Extract & Parabens: What the Industry Doesn't Want you to Know

I recently received an angry phone call from the owner of a certain cosmetics company.  I had listed them in my last article about brands that use Japanese Honeysuckle extract.  They demanded I take their name out of the article, threatening that their lawyers would be giving us a "cease and desist" order if we didn't oblige.  Apparently they've received numerous angry e-mails from customers who found out their products contained parahydroxy benzoic acid, a chemical that, as I've written, looks and acts like parabens.  Yet they claim that their product is "paraben-free" and continue to stick behind their products.  So, I thought I'd respond to their claims today.

One of our readers wrote to the company, asking if their products contain parabens.  The company wrote back to her: 

The Japanese Honeysuckle Extract DOES NOT have parabens in it what so ever.  It has the same chemical structure as parabens.  But it does not have parabens.

So, the company does admit, in writing, that their honeysuckle extract does contain a compound with the same chemical structure as parabens.  In other words, it contains parahydroxy benzoic acid, the compound that I've been talking about. 

Parahydroxy benzoic acid is the compound that inspired chemists to create parabens.  In fact, the name parabens comes from parahydroxy benzoic acid.  Methylparaben means parahydroxy benzoic acid with a methyl group.  Propylparaben means parahydroxy benzoic acid with a propyl group.  So, how can the company say that their product is paraben-free if it contains the original para-ben? 

The consensus in the cosmetics industry is that the term "parabens" only applies to synthetically-produced parabens.  When synthetic parabens were first created, they were the golden child of the cosmetics industry. Everyone was using them.  They're easy to formulate with, non-irritating on skin, "non-toxic," and cheap.  That was until consumers started learning of their estrogen-mimicking properties and possible link to breast cancer.  The word has spread, and now there's a huge market for paraben-free products.  So, cosmetic supply companies started coming out with paraben alternatives.  One of those companies is Campo Research: makers of Plantservative (Japanese Honeysuckle Extract). 

When a chemical company invents a new ingredient, they decide on a standardized name for it and submit it to the INCI database.  The INCI name for Plantservative products (there are three different grades) is "Japanese Honeysuckle Extract."  Campo Research decided on the name so they'd have a highly-marketable product: a preservative that has a natural-looking name on the label.  One that could hide among other natural ingredients, making the product look so very pure.  And, technically speaking, be "paraben-free."  And while the extract is indeed "natural," (for the most part--one grade of Plantservative uses phenoxyethanol as the extraction solvent)  that doesn't mean that it's harmless. Parahydroxy benzoic acid was studied in 2005 for its estrogenic properties.  The study says: 

It can be concluded that removal of the ester group from parabens does not abrogate its oestrogenic activity and that p-hydroxybenzoic acid can give oestrogenic responses in human breast cancer cells.

In other words, it doesn't matter if the paraben has a methyl, propyl, or butyl group, it's the parahydroxy benzoic acid itself that acts estrogenically.  But, because you technically (by the etiquette of the cosmetics industry) can't call parahydroxy benzoic acid a "paraben," these companies get away with saying that their products are "paraben-free." 

You know the old saying...if it looks like a duck, it quacks like a duck...then it's a duck.  But, even though parahydroxy benzoic acid looks like a paraben, and acts like a paraben, is the namesake of the word paraben, the cosmetics industry won't let us call it a paraben.  So that companies can continue to sell watered-down soaps and lotions at high profit margins and call them natural and "paraben-free."  

When I was on the phone with the owner of the other company, I told her that if her honeysuckle extract didn't contain parahydroxy benzoic acid, I'd be happy to write a new article and clear their name.  She continued to demand that I remove their name from the article.  I told her that parahydroxy benzoic acid acts estrogenically, just like parabens do.  She said "that's debateable."  I told her, okay, get me the information that proves otherwise.  I have data to back up what I'm saying.  If there's proof to the contrary, share it with me and I'll post a correction or even a complete retraction.  I'll even help promote their company (as I do in another article, recommending other products of theirs that don't contain honeysuckle extract.)  But she could only reply by telling me to remove their name from the list...or else. 

I haven't taken their name off the list, and I will not until they remove the ingredient from their products.  But these companies are unlikely to change their formulas. Mainly because they have found a way to basically sell cosmetic waters at a premium. Their water-based products make a higher profit margin than companies like ours that don't water down our products.  When you buy a shower gel of ours, it's all soap.  When you buy a body butter--it's all butter.  If we can't make something without water, then we don't make it. They can attempt to hide the fact that their products contains an ingredient with (their words) "the same chemical structure as parabens," and try to bully me in to submission. But I will continue my research and production of our USDA Certified Organic products, especially with the immense amount of support that Bubble & Bee Organic gets from our customers who have come to trust us and depend on us for the truth.

Mineral Makeup Dangers

Mineral makeups are a huge trend right now, being billed as more natural and safe than traditional makeups.  Let's look at what makes something a "mineral" makeup, compare them with conventional makeups, and look in to the health risks involved with both.

What are Mineral Makeups?

There's no legal definition of a mineral makeup.  More than anything, it's just a marketing term.  The premise of a mineral makeup is that it uses earth-derived pigments like titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide, and micas instead of artificial colors like aluminum lake and FD&C colors.  However, there's no law governing how mineral makeups are labeled, so many of the big companies use both synthetic and mineral compounds in their products and market them as mineral.  So, just like any product, always read the ingredients before you buy. (I'll be doing a full follow up article on synthetic dyes soon)

Additionally, the ingredients can vary drastically from brand to brand. Let's compare two "mineral" foundations:

Physician's Formula Mineral Wear

 

Ingredients:  Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl PEG/PPG 10/1 Dimethicone, Squalane, Triethylhexanoin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Polyglyceryl 4 Isostearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG 32, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Methicone, Polymethylmethacrylate, Propylene Glycol, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, May Contain: Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides

Real Purity Healthy Glow Foundation

 

Ingredients: Distilled Water, Vegetable Glycerin, Kaolin Clay, Rice Bran Oil and Iron Oxides

As you can see, the ingredients are very different.  While the first mineral makeup doesn't use any synthetic colors, it contains plenty of other "bad stuff," including parabens and PEGs.  The second formula, however, boasts a very simple ingredients list. 

The bottom line: just because it says it's "mineral" doesn't mean it's safer.  Always read the ingredients. 

What is the problem with mineral makeups.

Let's say you found a mineral makeup that's free from parabens and dimethicone and all the crazy-sounding ingredients.  The formula was just corn starch, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and jojoba oil.   It sounds like a simple ingredients list.  Would there be a problem with that?

New technologies have enabled cosmetic suppliers to create finer particles of minerals (we're talking iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and micas) that apply more smoothly to the skin.  Many of these powders contain nanoparticles, with particle sizes of less than 100 nanometers. As these powders are applied, they become airborn, and have the potential to deeply penetrate the tissue of the lungs, causing an inflammatory response. Source Source  Micas, even at full size, can also aggravate the respiratory system, and can cause internal lung scarring, and in severe cases, pneumonia.  Source 

Titanium dioxide is classified as a class 2B possible carcinogen.  This study found that repeated and prolonged exposure of titanium dioxide nanoparticles through inhalation cased lung cancer.  This study found that titanium dioxide nanoparticles caused oxidative stress when ingested by rats, and led to tumor foundation. Clearly, breathing in these particles is not good for our health. 

Finding a "good" mineral makeup

Of course I recommend using makeup sparingly, and letting your natural beauty show.  But if you "have" to use makeup, I recommend finding a liquid with simple ingredients (free of parabens, fragrance, phenoxyethanol, etc).  Here are some that I've found to be the best around:

Foundations:

Lauren Brooke Cosmetique Creme Foundation

Real Purity

Miessence

Eyeshadow:

100% Pure Cream Eyeshadow

Mascara:

100% Pure Fruit Pigmented Mascara

Real Purity

Update on Wed, April 7, 2010 at 1:34 PM by [Stephanie Greenwood]

A quick clarification: Although breathing in nanoparticles are more harmful than full size particles, breathing in the full size particles of titanium dioxide and other "mineral" compounds is not good either.  The safest option is a liquid foundation. 

The options that I've listed here aren't perfect, either.  However, they seem to be the best available on the market today that meet the criteria of not being airborn and not having parabens, phenoxyethanol, GSE, or honeysuckle extract.

Your second-best option would be to use a pressed powder.  Pressed powders aren't as airborne as loose powders so you breathe in less dust.