Sorbitol

EWG Risk Score:

1

What is it?

A sugar alcohol used as a humectant in cosmetic products. 

Why is it a risk?

If ingested, it can cause intestinal upset. 

Types of products it's found in:

Soaps, Personal Lubricants, Facial Cream, Moisturizers, Mouthwash

Brands that use this ingredient:

Bubble & Bee Organic (That's us!)

Hugo Naturals

The Body Shop

Poofy Organics

Tom's of Maine

Steph's Opinion:

All sugar alcohols can cause digestive upset when ingested.  One study in 1987 showed that sorbitol caused mutagentic activity when ingested at high doses.  However, more recent studies have not shown this effect.  In fact, in one study, the "control" group had more chromosomal abnormalities than the group that was treated with sorbitol.  So, in this study, sorbitol had anti-mutagenic effects. 

When used on skin, sorbitol is a wonderful humectant, meaning it draws moisture from the air and brings it to skin.  Extracted from sugar beets, sorbitol is very similar to vegetable glycerin.  So the bottom line---great stuff!

Sources:

http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/s5666.htm

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=706239

http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/journal/119640248/abstract?CRETRY=1&SRETRY=0

Polyaminopropyl Biguanide

EWG Risk Score:

2

What is it:

Polyaminopropyl Biguanide is a synthetic polymer used as a preservative and anti-bacterial agent.

Why it's a risk:

Polyaminopropyl Biguanide does not pose much risk other than a slight risk of skin or eye irritation at higher concentrations.

Types of products it's found in:

Contact Solutions, sunscreen, facial products, hair products, body washes and scrubs.

Brands that use this ingredient:

California Baby

Skin Free

ReNu

The Purity Project

Neutragena

Steph's Opinion:

Although a synthetic ingredient, it is not a terribly dangerous one.  It is not known to be mutagenic on mamilian cells, not an endocrine disruptor, not carcinogenic, and has a low toxicity.  It is not easily absorbed in to skin, and pretty mild on skin and eyes.  One fact that gives me pause is the way in which it works--by breaking the cell wall of the bacteria and damaging its DNA.  Anything that damages DNA doesn't sound very good to me.  However, the studies that have been done on the ingredient have shown that it's not strong enough to break down mamilian cells--so that's a good thing.  The bottom line: although it's not a natural ingredient that I would personally use, if you have to use it (say, in your contact solution) you can breathe a little sigh of relief that it's a safer ingredient. 

Sources:

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=704962

http://www.naturalingredient.org/Articles/msds_cosmocil_cq.pdf

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PAPB

Today's Chemical:

Grapefruit Seed Extract

EWG Risk Score:

3

What is it:

An extract used as a preservative.

Why it's a risk:

Grapefruit Seed extract as a pure extract is harmless.  However, the risk with it is that it can be contaminated with other harmful chemicals like methylparaben, triclosan, and benzethonium chloride.  When a company uses GSE, they don't have to disclose all of the ingredients inside the extract.  Is it an alcohol based extract?  Is it in water?  Is it in vegetable glycerin?  Or is it pure extract?  Does it contain preservatives?  Companies don't have to tell you, and sometimes they're unaware of the actual ingredients of the extract that's being sold to them.   It's used as a preservative, but studies have shown that GSE as a pure extract exhibits no anti-microbial activity, and that it's typically the impurities in the extract that act as a preservative. 

Types of products it's found in:

Bar soap, hand cream, moisturizer, conditioner, shampoo, facial cleanser, body washes.

Brands that use this ingredient:

(Note: This list is according to the EWG database.  Not all products from these companies contain this ingredient)

Meadowlake Farm Honeybee Products (*See comments below.  Meadowlake has confirmed they have tested their GSE for contaminants and assure their customers that it is a pure extract with no chemical contaminants.) 

Aubrey Organics

EO

Samantharoma

Khushi Spa

Jason Naturals

Lafe's

(for the full list, click here)

Steph's Opinion:

While it's not the worst ingredient out there, it's not as natural as it sounds.  If you're using a product containing GSE, call or write to the manufacturer and find out if they have tested their GSE in a laboratory for contaminants and that they can guarantee to you that it is free from harmful impurities. 

Sources:

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=701433

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grapefruit_seed_extract

Parabens (methylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, benzylparaben, isobutylparaben, propylparaben)

What is it:

Parabens are a group of chemicals used as preservatives in lotions, conditioners, shampoos, shower gels, deodorants, etc. 

Why are they a risk:

Since 2000, thirteen studies have shown that parabens display estrogenic activity.
Other studies have also shown that parabens have accumulated in breast cancer tissue. Although paraben supporters claim that the body breaks the chemical down quickly, these studies show that complete parabens accumulated in the tumors, not being broken down at all. It has been proven that excess estrogen does lead to reproductive cancers (like breast and uterine cancer), and it has been proven that parabens act like estrogen and accumulate in the body. The dots haven’t been officially connected by the FDA, but the case for parabens looks pretty grim. The European Journal of Cancer Prevention reported that “Frequency and earlier onset of antiperspirant/deodorant usage with underarm shaving were associated with an earlier age of breast cancer diagnosis.” It is possible that the parabens (and other chemicals) in the antiperspirant are to blame for this.

What type of products is it found in:

Anything water-based formula--conditioner, shampoo, body washes, lotions, hair creams, makeups.

Brands that use this ingredient:

Biore

Desert Essence

Peter Thomas

Derma Pro

Revlon

Estee Lauder

For a full list, click here: http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/browse.php?containing=703937

Steph's Opinion:

Over the last few years the EWG hazard score of this ingredient has crept from a 4 to an 8.  It seems like the evidence keeps piling up against parabens.  The good news is that a lot of companies are reformulating their products without parabens because the word is getting out.  The bad news is, though, that they're just replacing parabens with other harmful preservatives like diazolidinyl urea and tetrasodium EDTA. 

Sources:

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/

Parabens and Breast Cancer, www.breastcancerfund.org

McGrath KG (2003). An earlier age of breast cancer diagnosis related to more frequent use of antiperspirants/deodorants and underarm shaving. European Journal of Cancer Prevention 12:479-485.

Q.  What do you think about castor oil? It is an ingredient in my favorite organic soap. I've read mixed things about it. That it contains a toxic protein called ricin at some stage of production but apparantly none of that remains in the final product. What do you think?

-Phillip

A.  That's a great question.  Castor oil by itself is not a bad ingredient, and is a widely used in soaps, lotions, etc all over the world with a long history of safety as an oil.  However, castor oil production is not a safe or environmentally-friendly process.  First of all, castor oil is in high demand because it's cheap and it has unique chemical properties that allow it to be used in many industries to make lubricants, inks, paints, greases, adhesives and other industrial products.  Because of its high demand and low cost, the castor seed plant is, in many cases, genetically modified to increase yield and obtain certain fatty acid compositions.   Genetically modified crops, as you may know, can weaken ecosystems and deplete soils (among other side effects).  In addition, these crops require fertilizers and pesticides which pollute the soil and groundwater.  The use of a certified organic castor seed oil would of course not contribute to these problems.  However, there is still the problem of the processing.  The castor seed contains the poison ricin (as you already know).  Ricin is only slightly less toxic to the body than radioactive plutonium!  The oil extraction process removes the toxin from the oil, but the waste material has to go somewhere---it can end up in wastewater and landfills which then pollute the entire environment.  Much of the worlds' castor oil is processed in countries that don't have strict environmental safety standards.  In addition, there are allergenic compounds found on the plant surface can cause permanent nerve damage, making the harvest of castor beans a human health risk for the workers involved.  So, although as a finished product it's safe for use, we feel it's not a responsible ingredient to use because of the safety risks involved with the processing and harvest of the plant.  We have found that other oils such as sunflower and coconut do just as good or better of a job at moisturizing skin and don't have these negative side effects!

Sources:

http://www.linnaeus.net/problem_with_castor.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castor_oil

EWG Risk Score:
6-8 (depending on useage)

What is it?
PEG-40 is a derivative of castor oil that's used as a cleansing agent.

Why is it a risk?
According to the Cosmetics Ingredients Review PEG-40 Castor Oil "can instigate immune system response that can include itching, burning, scaling, hives, and blistering of skin." They also state it may "contain harmful impurities" like known carcinogens Ethylene Oxide and 1,4-Dioxane.

What type of products is it found in?
Moisturizers, conditioners, sunscreens, shampoos, facial cleansers.

Companies that use this chemical:

• Desert Essence
• MD Skincare
• Nature's Gate
• Bumble and Bumble
• Banana Boat
• L'Occitane
• Estee Lauder

Steph's Opinion:
Sounds natural enough with "castor oil" in it's name, this ingredient is anything but natural. PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. To create PEG-40, you combine castor oil with 40 moles (chemical measurement) of ethylene oxide. Ethylene oxide is a known carcinogen, traces of which are most likely contained in the final PEG product. There are many PEGs with different numbers following them (PEG-200, PEG-20, etc) but I chose to highlight PEG-40 today because of its wide useage. In over 100 products, it's even contained in supposedly "natural" products. Watch out for any PEG, as they all have the same contamination concerns. 

Today's Chemical:

Ethylhexylglycerin

EWG Risk Score:

1

What is it?

Ethylhexylglycerin is a conditioning agent and preservative.

Why is it a risk?

Two studies have found it to be a skin irritant, even at low concentrations, so people with sensitive skin may experience contact dermatitis.  In addition it is an eye irritant

What Type of Products is it in?

Lotions, washes, shampoo, conditioner

Companies that use this ingredient:

Avalon Organic

Jason Organic

Dermae

Alba

Steph's Opinion:

Ethylhexylglycerin is a relatively new chemical on the market.  Many companies use it as an alternative to parabens and claim that it's from natural sources.  Yes, it may have started out as a vegetable oil, but it's gone through several chemical processes to become what it is.  This isn't the worst ingredient in the world, but it's also not truly natural.  If you don't have to put chemicals on your skin, why do it?

Sources:

http://www.truthinaging.com/2009/03/ethylhexylglycerin.html

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=702352&refurl=%2Fproduct.php%3Fprod_id%3D112247%26

Benzyl Alcohol (aka Phenylcarbinol)

EWG Risk Score:

7

What is it?

Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol used as a preservative, as the active ingredient in head lice treatment, and as a solvent.  It is most often created by combining benzyl chloride (a suspected carcinogen that has been used as a war gas) with sodium hydroxide (lye).  Sometimes it is created by reacting phenylmagnesium bromide (C₆H₅MgBr) with formaldehyde.

Why is it a risk?

Benzyl Alcohol can act as a skin sensitizer, and, according to a 1998 study can "can instigate immune system response that can include itching, burning, scaling, hives, and blistering of skin."  It is also a known neurotoxin. 

What Type of Products is it in?

Shampoos, Lotions, Baby Wipes, Perfumes, Facial Creams, Sunscreens

Companies/Brands That Use this Ingredient:

Lotrimin

Jason Naturals

Naturopathica

Lotus Moon

Aveeno

Neutrogena

Solbar

Steph's Opinion:

The term "aromatic" doesn't just mean that it's fragrant.  It's a chemical term meaning that on a molecular level, the compound contains a benzene ring.  Benzene is a highly toxic and carcinogenic compound, and depending on what it's combined with, can have many side effects.  In addition, it can break down and create aldehydes (like formaldehyde) in the presence of other chemicals.  Titanium Dioxide is one of those chemicals.  So you may be using a "mineral" makeup or sunscreen and feeling like you're safe--but if it contains benzyl alcohol, it could be offgassing formaldehyde or a related chemical.  Here's one example of a product that contains both chemicals and would have the possibility of formaldehyde offgassing.

Sources:
http://chemicalland21.com/industrialchem/solalc/BENZYL%20ALCOHOL.htm

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=700697

http://www.osha.gov/dts/chemicalsampling/data/CH_220500.html

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B6TF5-4T4J845-1&_user=10&_rdoc=1&_fmt=&_orig=search&_sort=d&_docanchor=&view=c&_searchStrId=947585626&_rerunOrigin=google&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=a1a496a776cedffa15169ebdc2676d2d

Sodium Hydroxypropylphosphate Laurylglucoside Crosspolymer 

EWG Risk Score:

0

What is it:

(Let's just call it SHLC for short...)  SHLC is a surfactant chemical used to create lather and to clean.

Why is it a risk?

SHLC is one of the very few chemicals on my list that doesn't currently pose any risk.  It's not ethoxylated or processed with any toxic or carcinogenic chemicals.  It's not petroleum based, but processed from sugar or corn.  It has been tested for skin and eye irritation with no adverse effects.

Types of products it's in:

Shampoo

Shower Gels

Companies that use this chemical:

Steph's Opinion:

We use decyl glucoside (aka decyl polyglucose), which is in the same family of surfactants (glucosides) in our lathering salt scrubs.  Of course we would love to use an organic castile soap, as that would be the most natural option, however, when you add castile soap to salt, it becomes a goopy mess that no longer cleans or lathers.  So, that's why we use the next best thing--a glucoside compound.  For once--you can rest easy!  It's got a crazy name, but SHLC is one you can use!

http://www.colonialchem.com/Products/Personal-Care/Poly-SugaPhos-Naturally-Green-Polymeric-Surfactants/31/Poly-SugaPhos-1200P

BABASSUAMIDOPROPALKONIUM CHLORIDE

EWG Risk Score:

0

What is it?

Babassuamidopropalkonium Chloride is a quaternary ammonium salt.  It is created by a complex reaction starting with shea butter fatty acids and adding amines, alkines, methyl iodide and then following up by treating it  with silver oxide, water, and heat.  I'm simplifying of course...but suffice it to say they start out with shea butter, add a bunch of chemicals, heat and reactions until it's a synthetic chemical of its own.  It's used in many ways, as a surfactant, conditioning agent and fabric softener. 

Why is it a risk?

This is another example of the Costmetics Database not picking up on a risky chemical.  Chemical companies come out with these chemicals so quickly, it takes time for the database to flag them.  But because this chemical is a quaternary ammonium salt, it not only is created by a non-environmentally friendly process, it is a pretty serious risk.  I found a web page that outlines the risks involved with any quaternary ammonium salt (or "quats" as they call them in the cosmetics industry)...You can read the full link here, or enjoy these lovely excerpts: 

Quaternary ammonium compounds can cause toxic effects by
all routes of exposure including inhalation, ingestion,
dermal application and irrigation of body cavities. Exposure
to diluted solutions can cause mild and self-limited
irritation. Concentrated solutions of quaternary ammonium
compounds are corrosive and can cause burns to the skin and
the mucous membranes. They can produce systemic toxicity due
to their curare-like properties. They can also cause allergic
reactions.

Mild to severe caustic burns of the skin and mucous
membranes can occur depending on the agent and the
concentration. Other signs may include: nausea, vomiting,
abdominal pain, anxiety, restlessness, coma, convulsions,
hypotension, cyanosis and apnoea due to respiratory muscle
paralysis; death may occur within 1 or 3 hours after
ingestion of concentrated solutions. Haemolysis and
methaemoglobinemia have been reported infrequently.

What type of products is it in?

Body Wash

Shampoo

Conditioner

Hand Cream

Bubble Bath

Body Lotions

Companies that use this chemical:

Avalon Organics

Nature's Gate

Steph's Opinion

Years ago when I was starting to research making products, a chemical salesman tried to sell me a similar chemical: sunfloweramidopropalkonium chloride.  He said that I would get the conditioning effects that I wanted with a natural-sounding chemical on the label.   So, I ordered a sample to check it out.  When I got it, I started reading the MSDS sheet that came with it.  After I saw all the warnings, there was no way that I was going to expose myself and my customers to the chemical.  The only companies that are using this particular "quat" are Nature's Gate and Avalon.  However, anything that reads "alkonium chloride" is in the same family of chemicals.

Sources:

http://www.inchem.org/documents/pims/chemical/pimg022.htm#SectionTitle:2.1%20%20Main%20risk%20and%20target%20organs

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hofmann_Elimination