Polysorbate 20

EWG Risk Score:

1   (Steph's risk score: 5)

What is it?

Polysorbate-20 is fragrance component, a surfactant, an emulsifying agent, and a solubilizing agent.   

Why is it a risk?

Polysorbate starts out as harmless sorbitol, but then it's treated with carcinogenic ethylene oxide.  It's called Polysorbate 20 because it's treated with 20 "parts" of ethylene oxide.  The higher the number, the more ethylene oxide it has been treated with.  This substance is then combined with various fatty acids.  The Skin Deep Database rates it as only a "one," and doesn't pick up on the risk that it could be contaminated with ethylene oxide, and subsequently, 1,4 dioxane.  In addition, it can be laced with heavy metals.

Types of products it's found in:

Facial cleanser, body wash, toners, moisturizer

A Few Brands that use this ingredient:

Kid Kare

Afterglow Cosmetics

Daisy Blue

emerginC

Lotus Moon

derma e

Kiss My Face

EO

Terra Firma

Alba

Steph's Opinion:

Although it's derived from a natural ingredient, it is not natural--it is an ethoxylated compound.  This is another case in point proving that you need to do your own research and not just count on the EWG risk score, as there are many ingredients that can slip through the cracks. 

Methylisothiazolinone

EWG Risk Score:

6

What is it?

Methylisothiazolinone  is a synthetic cosmetic preservative.

Why is it a risk?

Methylisothiazolinone is a known neurotoxin.  In 2004, the European Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products Intended for Consumers (SCCNFP) suggested that companies limit the maximum concentration to 0.01% (100 ppm).  However, US companies are not required to follow this guideline.  It is known to be absorbed through skin.  A study at the Pittsburgh School of Medicine concluded that "Prolonged exposure to low levels of MIT and related compounds may have damaging consequences to the developing nervous system."

Types of products it's found in:

Shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, facial cleanser, bubble bath

Brands that use this ingredient:

Suave

Eucerin 

Dove

Pantene

Dermacia

Neutrogena

Method

Avon

Steph's Opinion:

Although no studies have proven it to be, I believe this could possibly be an estrogen mimicker.  On a molecular level, it contains a benzene ring, which can mean that it could interfere with the body's estrogen receptors.   As if the high neurotoxicity wasn't enough.  Although concentrations of this ingredient are typically very low, I personally suggest avoiding this ingredient. 

Cocamide DEA

EWG Risk Score:

6-8 Depending on useage and concentration

What is it?

Cocamide DEA created by reacting diethanolamine with unspecified fatty acids from coconut oil.  Diethanolamine is made by reacting ethylene oxide and ammonia. It is used as a thickener, emulsifier and foam booster. 

Why is it a risk?

DEA is on three federal regulatory program lists as an indoor household air pollutant, a toxic substance, and is a toxic release inventory chemical.  It is a suspected  blood toxin, liver toxin, a kidney toxin, a neurotoxin, and a skin and organ system toxin.  Cocamide DEA carries these same risks, as it is chemically similar.  In addition, in the presence of other chemicals, cocamide DEA can break down and create carcinogenic nitrosamines. 

Types of products it's found in:

shampoos, body washes, liquid soaps, bubble baths

Brands that use this ingredient:

Neutrogena

Bioelements

Nature's Gate

Shikai

Method

Steph's Opinion:

As you can see, many "natural" brands use this ingredient, stating that it's made from coconuts.  Well, yes, part of it was once a coconut, but when you combine coconut with a possible carcinogen and toxic chemical, it kind of loses its natural appeal. 

Triethanolamine (TEA)

EWG Risk Score:

6

What is it?

Triethanolamine is a detergent and emulsifying agent.

Why is it a risk?

TEA is created by reacting ammonia with ethylene oxide (a known carcinogen).  Amines such as TEA can degrade and break down in to nitrosamines under certain conditions.  Some people are also sensitive to TEA, and it can cause skin redness and burning.  It can also cause respiratory responses in airpborne products (like hairspray).  Most TEA on the market is a blend of about 85% TEA and 15% DEA, Diethanolamine.  Diethanolamine, a related chemical, has been linked to certain types of cancers.

Types of products it's found in:

Facial moisturizer

Sunscreen

Styling Gel

Foundation

Scrubs

Brands that use this ingredient:

Neutrogena

Physician's Formula

Biolage

St. Ives

Avon

L'Oreal

Steph's Opinion:

Alone, TEA has not been shown to form nitrosamines when it breaks down.  However, in the presence of N-nitrostating agents like sodium nitrate, bronopol, and brondiox, it has the potential to form nitrosamines.  The FDA recommends keeping TEA  and nitrosating agents apart so that no nitrosamines are formed.  So, although the risk of nitrosamine formation is low, this is still a troublesome ingredient because of its risk of skin irritation and because of its contamination with DEA.

Sources:

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient/706639/TRIETHANOLAMINE/

http://www.dow.com/PublishedLiterature/dh_004c/0901b8038004cfcd.pdf?filepath=productsafety/pdfs/noreg/233-00267.pdf&fromPage=GetDoc

http://www.lotioncrafter.com/triethanolamine-nf.html

http://www.preventcancer.com/press/releases/feb22_98.htm

Sorbitol

EWG Risk Score:

1

What is it?

A sugar alcohol used as a humectant in cosmetic products. 

Why is it a risk?

If ingested, it can cause intestinal upset. 

Types of products it's found in:

Soaps, Personal Lubricants, Facial Cream, Moisturizers, Mouthwash

Brands that use this ingredient:

Bubble & Bee Organic (That's us!)

Hugo Naturals

The Body Shop

Poofy Organics

Tom's of Maine

Steph's Opinion:

All sugar alcohols can cause digestive upset when ingested.  One study in 1987 showed that sorbitol caused mutagentic activity when ingested at high doses.  However, more recent studies have not shown this effect.  In fact, in one study, the "control" group had more chromosomal abnormalities than the group that was treated with sorbitol.  So, in this study, sorbitol had anti-mutagenic effects. 

When used on skin, sorbitol is a wonderful humectant, meaning it draws moisture from the air and brings it to skin.  Extracted from sugar beets, sorbitol is very similar to vegetable glycerin.  So the bottom line---great stuff!

Sources:

http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/s5666.htm

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=706239

http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/journal/119640248/abstract?CRETRY=1&SRETRY=0

Polyaminopropyl Biguanide

EWG Risk Score:

2

What is it:

Polyaminopropyl Biguanide is a synthetic polymer used as a preservative and anti-bacterial agent.

Why it's a risk:

Polyaminopropyl Biguanide does not pose much risk other than a slight risk of skin or eye irritation at higher concentrations.

Types of products it's found in:

Contact Solutions, sunscreen, facial products, hair products, body washes and scrubs.

Brands that use this ingredient:

California Baby

Skin Free

ReNu

The Purity Project

Neutragena

Steph's Opinion:

Although a synthetic ingredient, it is not a terribly dangerous one.  It is not known to be mutagenic on mamilian cells, not an endocrine disruptor, not carcinogenic, and has a low toxicity.  It is not easily absorbed in to skin, and pretty mild on skin and eyes.  One fact that gives me pause is the way in which it works--by breaking the cell wall of the bacteria and damaging its DNA.  Anything that damages DNA doesn't sound very good to me.  However, the studies that have been done on the ingredient have shown that it's not strong enough to break down mamilian cells--so that's a good thing.  The bottom line: although it's not a natural ingredient that I would personally use, if you have to use it (say, in your contact solution) you can breathe a little sigh of relief that it's a safer ingredient. 

Sources:

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=704962

http://www.naturalingredient.org/Articles/msds_cosmocil_cq.pdf

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PAPB

Today's Chemical:

Grapefruit Seed Extract

EWG Risk Score:

3

What is it:

An extract used as a preservative.

Why it's a risk:

Grapefruit Seed extract as a pure extract is harmless.  However, the risk with it is that it can be contaminated with other harmful chemicals like methylparaben, triclosan, and benzethonium chloride.  When a company uses GSE, they don't have to disclose all of the ingredients inside the extract.  Is it an alcohol based extract?  Is it in water?  Is it in vegetable glycerin?  Or is it pure extract?  Does it contain preservatives?  Companies don't have to tell you, and sometimes they're unaware of the actual ingredients of the extract that's being sold to them.   It's used as a preservative, but studies have shown that GSE as a pure extract exhibits no anti-microbial activity, and that it's typically the impurities in the extract that act as a preservative. 

Types of products it's found in:

Bar soap, hand cream, moisturizer, conditioner, shampoo, facial cleanser, body washes.

Brands that use this ingredient:

(Note: This list is according to the EWG database.  Not all products from these companies contain this ingredient)

Meadowlake Farm Honeybee Products (*See comments below.  Meadowlake has confirmed they have tested their GSE for contaminants and assure their customers that it is a pure extract with no chemical contaminants.) 

Aubrey Organics

EO

Samantharoma

Khushi Spa

Jason Naturals

Lafe's

(for the full list, click here)

Steph's Opinion:

While it's not the worst ingredient out there, it's not as natural as it sounds.  If you're using a product containing GSE, call or write to the manufacturer and find out if they have tested their GSE in a laboratory for contaminants and that they can guarantee to you that it is free from harmful impurities. 

Sources:

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=701433

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grapefruit_seed_extract

Parabens (methylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, benzylparaben, isobutylparaben, propylparaben)

What is it:

Parabens are a group of chemicals used as preservatives in lotions, conditioners, shampoos, shower gels, deodorants, etc. 

Why are they a risk:

Since 2000, thirteen studies have shown that parabens display estrogenic activity.
Other studies have also shown that parabens have accumulated in breast cancer tissue. Although paraben supporters claim that the body breaks the chemical down quickly, these studies show that complete parabens accumulated in the tumors, not being broken down at all. It has been proven that excess estrogen does lead to reproductive cancers (like breast and uterine cancer), and it has been proven that parabens act like estrogen and accumulate in the body. The dots haven’t been officially connected by the FDA, but the case for parabens looks pretty grim. The European Journal of Cancer Prevention reported that “Frequency and earlier onset of antiperspirant/deodorant usage with underarm shaving were associated with an earlier age of breast cancer diagnosis.” It is possible that the parabens (and other chemicals) in the antiperspirant are to blame for this.

What type of products is it found in:

Anything water-based formula--conditioner, shampoo, body washes, lotions, hair creams, makeups.

Brands that use this ingredient:

Biore

Desert Essence

Peter Thomas

Derma Pro

Revlon

Estee Lauder

For a full list, click here: http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/browse.php?containing=703937

Steph's Opinion:

Over the last few years the EWG hazard score of this ingredient has crept from a 4 to an 8.  It seems like the evidence keeps piling up against parabens.  The good news is that a lot of companies are reformulating their products without parabens because the word is getting out.  The bad news is, though, that they're just replacing parabens with other harmful preservatives like diazolidinyl urea and tetrasodium EDTA. 

Sources:

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/

Parabens and Breast Cancer, www.breastcancerfund.org

McGrath KG (2003). An earlier age of breast cancer diagnosis related to more frequent use of antiperspirants/deodorants and underarm shaving. European Journal of Cancer Prevention 12:479-485.

Q.  What do you think about castor oil? It is an ingredient in my favorite organic soap. I've read mixed things about it. That it contains a toxic protein called ricin at some stage of production but apparantly none of that remains in the final product. What do you think?

-Phillip

A.  That's a great question.  Castor oil by itself is not a bad ingredient, and is a widely used in soaps, lotions, etc all over the world with a long history of safety as an oil.  However, castor oil production is not a safe or environmentally-friendly process.  First of all, castor oil is in high demand because it's cheap and it has unique chemical properties that allow it to be used in many industries to make lubricants, inks, paints, greases, adhesives and other industrial products.  Because of its high demand and low cost, the castor seed plant is, in many cases, genetically modified to increase yield and obtain certain fatty acid compositions.   Genetically modified crops, as you may know, can weaken ecosystems and deplete soils (among other side effects).  In addition, these crops require fertilizers and pesticides which pollute the soil and groundwater.  The use of a certified organic castor seed oil would of course not contribute to these problems.  However, there is still the problem of the processing.  The castor seed contains the poison ricin (as you already know).  Ricin is only slightly less toxic to the body than radioactive plutonium!  The oil extraction process removes the toxin from the oil, but the waste material has to go somewhere---it can end up in wastewater and landfills which then pollute the entire environment.  Much of the worlds' castor oil is processed in countries that don't have strict environmental safety standards.  In addition, there are allergenic compounds found on the plant surface can cause permanent nerve damage, making the harvest of castor beans a human health risk for the workers involved.  So, although as a finished product it's safe for use, we feel it's not a responsible ingredient to use because of the safety risks involved with the processing and harvest of the plant.  We have found that other oils such as sunflower and coconut do just as good or better of a job at moisturizing skin and don't have these negative side effects!

Sources:

http://www.linnaeus.net/problem_with_castor.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castor_oil

EWG Risk Score:
6-8 (depending on useage)

What is it?
PEG-40 is a derivative of castor oil that's used as a cleansing agent.

Why is it a risk?
According to the Cosmetics Ingredients Review PEG-40 Castor Oil "can instigate immune system response that can include itching, burning, scaling, hives, and blistering of skin." They also state it may "contain harmful impurities" like known carcinogens Ethylene Oxide and 1,4-Dioxane.

What type of products is it found in?
Moisturizers, conditioners, sunscreens, shampoos, facial cleansers.

Companies that use this chemical:

• Desert Essence
• MD Skincare
• Nature's Gate
• Bumble and Bumble
• Banana Boat
• L'Occitane
• Estee Lauder

Steph's Opinion:
Sounds natural enough with "castor oil" in it's name, this ingredient is anything but natural. PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. To create PEG-40, you combine castor oil with 40 moles (chemical measurement) of ethylene oxide. Ethylene oxide is a known carcinogen, traces of which are most likely contained in the final PEG product. There are many PEGs with different numbers following them (PEG-200, PEG-20, etc) but I chose to highlight PEG-40 today because of its wide useage. In over 100 products, it's even contained in supposedly "natural" products. Watch out for any PEG, as they all have the same contamination concerns.