Tert-BUTYLHYDROQUINONE (TBHQ)

EWG Skin Deep Hazard Score:

2

What is it:

TBHQ is a phenolic preservative and stabilizer used in cosmetics, varnishes, lacquers, and resins. 

What are its risks:

• A number of animal studies have found it to be mutagenic or carcinogenic at high doses.  (Source)(Source)
• Potential skin or eye irritant at full strength.  (Source)

Steph's Opinion:

TBHQ is a phenol, so it does have the potential to interfere with the way estrogen and estrogen receptors work in the body.  There have been no studies to asses the possible estrogenic activity of this chemical.  Couple this fact with its potentially mutagenic properties, and I'd deem this an ingredient to avoid. 

Sodium PCA

EWG Skin Deep Hazard Score:

1

What is it:

Sodium PCA is short for sodium pyroglutamic acid.  It is the sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid, a derivative of the amino acid proline. Sodium PCA is considered to be a synthetic chemical.  It is used as a humectant and skin conditioner in cosmetic formulas.

What are its risks:

• In the presence of certain chemicals and in heat and light, sodium PCA can break down and create carcinogenic nitrosamines. (Source)
• No reproductive studies have been done on this ingredient.  It is unknown if it is a xenoestrogen.
• When ingested in larger amounts, may have unknown effects on the brain. (Source)

Steph's Opinion:

I would consider this a low-to-moderate risk ingredient.  I would recommend avoiding if you have MCS or are highly sensitive to MSG, as it has chemical similarities.  I hope for more data to become available as to any possible reproductive effects. 

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate

EWG Skin Deep Hazard Score:

4

What is it:

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate is a synthetic surfactant used as a detergent, skin conditioning agent and emulsifier. 

What are its risks:

• Under certain conditions, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate can break down and form carcinogenic nitrosamines. (Source)
• The Cosmetics Ingredient Review Board advises that it should not be used at more than a 5% concentration, and should only be used in wash-off products.
• Can be a contact allergen. (source)

Steph's Opinion:

Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate has the same initials as sodium lauryl sulfate, and the same risks. 

Carbomer

EWG Skin Deep Hazard Score:

0

What is it:

Carbomer is a white fluffy powder that's used in lotions and other cosmetic formulas as a thickener, stabilizer, and emulsifier.  Carbomer does not actually refer to one particular molecule, but is a generic term for a series of polymers primarily made from acrylic acid.  Source

What are its risks:

• The Cosmetics Industry Review Board has deemed carbomer safe for cosmetic use.
• Carbomer can have a varying pH that must be neutralized in order for it to do its job of thickening.  A formula containing carbomer will sometimes have these neutralizing agents listed, including triethanolamine (TEA), sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, tetrasodium EDTA, and sodium hydroxymethylglycinate.  Other times, companies will buy pre-neutralized carbomer, which may or may not list the neutralizing agent.  (Source)
• Full-strength carbomer can be highly irritating to skin and eyes and may have a permeating effect on skin.  (Source)

Steph's Opinion:

Carbomer is a synthetic chemical made specifically for cosmetic use.  It has been in use for over 50 years, and has a pretty long history of safety.  However, neutralizing agents such as TEA or tetrasodium EDTA may or may not be disclosed on the label, and could possibly be contaminants in the formulation. 

Ferric ammonium ferrocyanide

EWG Skin Deep Hazard Score:

(4-6 Depends on usage)

What is it:

Ferric ammonium ferrocyanide is a synthetic colorant used to impart a blue color to cosmetic formulas.  It is closely related to Fferric ferrocyanide, or Prussian Blue, but is not the same chemical. It belongs to a class of chemicals called inorganic cyanides and is also a quaternary ammonium compound.

What are its risks:

• According to this safety sheet, "Inorganic cyanides react slowly with water to evolve gaseous hydrogen cyanide (HCN). Acids cause the rapid evolution of HCN; carbon dioxide from the air is sufficiently acidic to liberate HCN from solutions of cyanides."  Hydrogen cyanide is a highly toxic gas.  Would the water in sweat plus exposure to air, combined with the compound in a makeup be able to create enough toxic gas to be harmful?  Likely not, but it could cause an unknown low-level exposure.
• The safety sheet linked to above also sates that if exposed to skin it can be a potential irritant.  While some safety sheets aren't an accurate reflection of the safety of an ingredient in cosmetic use, the following phrase really is concerning: "If symptoms such as redness or irritation develop, IMMEDIATELY call a physician and be prepared to transport the victim to a hospital for treatment."  and in cases of ingestion: "IMMEDIATELY call a hospital or poison control center and locate activated charcoal, egg whites, or milk in case the medical advisor recommends administering one of them. [...] IMMEDIATELY transport victim to a hospital. If the victim is convulsing or unconscious, do not give anything by mouth, assure that the victim's airway is open and lay the victim on his/her side with the head lower than the body."  These strong warnings would indicate to me this ingredient has at least moderate toxicity.
• According to this study, Ferric Ammonium Farrocyanide is known to be neurotoxic to humans.
• Is considered an air pollutant by the EPA. (Source)

Steph's Opinion

This ingredient has been used and approved for cosmetic use since the 1970s.  In small doses (not much is needed to give color to a product) it is likely not harmful.  However, if one is striving to reduce their exposure to toxins as much as possible, this ingredient would be one to avoid. 

Benzyl Benzoate

EWG Risk Score:

5

What is it:

Benzyl benzoate is a synthetic chemical used as a fragrance ingredient, artificial flavor, preservative, and solvent.  It is also considered an over the counter drug and can be used as a scabies or lice treatment.  It is an ester of benzyl alcohol and benzoic acid. 

What are it's risks:

• Benzyl benzoate has been found to posess weakly estrogenic properties and have weak stimulating action upon the growth of breast cancer cells in one study. However, this study found benzyl benzoate not to display this activity at the concentration tested. 

• Listed as a suspected allergen by the EU Cosmetics Directive. (Source)
• From Drugs.com, the side effects of medical-strength benzyl benzoate are:
  • Blister formation, crusting, itching, oozing, reddening, or scaling of skin
  • difficulty in urinating (dribbling)
  • jerking movements
  • sudden loss of consciousness
  • burning or itching of skin

         These side effects are usually only seen at high doses and concentrations, however, damaged skin or    impaired immune function may make certain individuals more suseptible to reactions. 

Brands that use benzyl benzoate include: Jason, The Body Shop, Origins, Weleda, Dermalogica & Zia.

Steph's Opinion:

I would classify the estrogen-mimicking properties of benzyl benzoate as potential, but not confirmed.  As a person who seeks to avoid xenoestrogens (chemicals that mimic estrogen in the body) I, as a precautionary measure, avoid benzyl benzoate as well. 

Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (aka, coco hydroxysulfaine).

EWG Hazard Score:

0

What is it:

Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine is similar to cocamidopropyl betaine. It is a synthetic detergent used also as a foam booster, thickener, and anti-static agent. 

What are it's risks:

Like cocamidopropyl betaine, it can be a strong skin allergen. (Source)

Steph's Opinion:

There is only ONE published study regarding the safety of this ingredient.  The MSDS sheet is also not made public. Although the database scores it as a 0, it doesn't necessarily mean that it's safe--it's just means that there is no data on the ingredient. So, while it doesn't have a history of being harmful, it also doesn't have a history of being safe.  If you have skin sensitivies, eczema, reactions, and such, I would personally suggest avoiding this ingredient. 

Phenoxyethanol

EWG Risk Score:

4

What is it:

Phenoxyethanol is an aromatic ether alcohol. What does this mean? This ingredient starts out as phenol, a toxic white crystalline powder that's created from benzene (a known carcinogen) and then is treated with ethylene oxide (also a known carcinogen) and an alkalai.

What's its job as an ingredient:

Phenoxyethanol is commonly used in the ingredient listed as "fragrance" and also used as a preservative.

What Type of Products is it in:

Sunscreen, facial products, scrubs, moisturizers, body wash, mascara

Safety/Hazard Info:

• This animal study found phenoxyethanol to be a reproductive toxin.  (Source)
• This study found it to be the cause of contact dermatitis (skin allergen/irritant.)  (Source)
• This review confirms phenoxyethanol as a reproductive toxin.  (Source)
• This also confirms phenoxyethanol as an ovarian toxin not just for the original animal exposed to it, but shown to effect the development of its offspring.  (Source)
• This study found it to be a significant contact allergen.  (Source)

Steph's Opinion:

Made out of carcinogenic and toxic compounds, phenoxyethanol is an ingredient that I would suggest avoiding. Oftentimes it's found in "natural" products. They'll use phenoxyethanol as the preservative and then tout that they're "paraben-free." In addition it's commonly used as a fragrance ingredient. Many of the natural companies still use synthetic fragrance. They'll tout that they're "phthalate-free" but still contain phenoxyethanol. So, just because something's "phlalate-free" or "paraben-free" doesn't mean it's safe. Any time you see "fragrance" listed, phenoxyethanol could be present, along with any number of harmful synthetic chemicals. Phenoxyethanol is structurally similar to parabens on a chemical level, so its toxicity to the reproductive system is not surprising.  

Also note: some companies may claim that their phenoxyethanol is extracted from natural sources.  So, while this is better because it lessens the risk for ethylene oxide contamination, it is still the same chemical structurally, and would pose the same risks. 

Sorbitan Olivate

EWG Risk Score:

0

What is it:

Sorbitan is a mild surfactant and emulsifier made from sorbitol and olive oil.

What are its risks:

Sorbitan olivate is a relativeley new chemical on the market, so there is not much published data on the ingredient.  According to MSDS sheets, however, it is over 90% biodegradeable, defined as non-toxic and non-irritant. 

Steph's Opinion:

I have worked with this ingredient before and it actually is a synthetic that I would consider to be safe.  I would consider this to be a better alternative to "vegetable emulsifying wax," which is full of ethoxylated compounds (you can read more about that here.)

Glucose Oxidase

EWG Risk Score:

2

What is it:

Glucose Oxidase is actually an enzyme that's naturally present in honey and even on the surface of some fungi.  Glucose oxidase works as a preservative by releasing hydrogen peroxide, which is toxic to bacteria.  (Source)  It is typically used with lactose peroxidase for full preservative effect in a cosmetic formulation.

Safety Info:

• According to MSDS sheets, it is an eye irritant, a skin irritant a lung irritant and "prolonged or repeated exposure may lead to irreversible damage to health." (Source)  However, this may not be an accurate risk asessment, as this information applies to the pure powder.  Concentrations of glucose oxidase in a cosmetic formula would be much lower, and thus the risks would be as well. 

• Toxilogical data for Glucose Oxidase is highly lacking. Here is a screen shot of one MSDS sheet:

As you can see, "no data available" seems to be a theme with this ingredient. 

Steph's Opinion:

I view this ingredient somewhat with caution because of its lack of safety data, and wouldn't recommend it for someone with extremely sensitive skin.  I also find it somewhat concerning because it creates hydrogen peroxide, which creates free radicals on the skin.  (Source)  However, this would be in very small amounts, and the effects may be negated by other ingredients.  But it is still a concerning effect.